I'm here in El Calafate. All travels went smoothly. Seattle-Dallas-Buenos Aires-El Calafate. Had a looong layover in Buenos Aires. Thought about going into the City (30 minutes away from the airport), but decided not to risk not making it back to the airport in time.
I didn't use the ATMs in the BA airport because I didn't think I'd get a very good exchange rate (based on the $200 US cash I exchanged there to hold me over)... I figured I'd wait 'til I get to El Calafate. Then it turns out the ATMs in this town are all out of money (seriously) and the next town where I'm staying for a couple days (El Chalten) does not have any ATMs (and I'm leaving here first thing in the morning), so I'll have to be a little careful until I get back here to El Calafate. All should be OK; I do have some cash, and only need it for food and one night's lodging. Dinner consisted of half a leftover sandwich from lunch, but I did buy a beer. After 36 hours of airplane/airport food (mostly bread/cheese/lunchmeat), I am craving hot food and fruit and vegetables.
I walked around town and over to the lake, then came back and took a much needed shower.
El Calafate feels a lot like Chelan, Washington. Dusty touristy town on a big lake on the dry side of the mountains. The place where I'm staying is a hostel/hotel hybrid... nothing special, but I have my own room, which is cozy enough, and the folks at the desk are helpful and friendly. Off to El Chalten tomorrow on the bus. It's still daylight at 10:30 p.m, so I'll have lots of time for a long hike. Fitz Roy mountain there is supposed to be spectacular; I'm crossing my fingers for good weather.